Things to Do in Ninh Binh: How to Spend Two Days

The best things to do in Ninh Binh are the Trang An boat ride, the viewpoints at Mua Cave, and Bich Dong Pagoda. Give yourself two full days to see those highlights, spend an evening at Hoa Lu Ancient Town, and still have time to enjoy the scenery without rushing.

I spent three nights in Ninh Binh during my solo Vietnam trip, exploring with Grab instead of renting a scooter or joining a tour.

After Hoi An and Hue, this was where I slowed down a little. Mountains outside my room, a pool waiting when I got back, and no need to squeeze something into every hour. Pretty much exactly what I needed.

Here’s how I’d spend two days in Ninh Binh, plus where I’d stay and what I’d add if you have more time.

Two Days in Ninh Binh at a Glance

Two full days cover the highlights I’d prioritize. A third day gives you room for another outing or some downtime, which I appreciated before heading to Hanoi.

Day 1: Trang An Boat Tour

Make the Trang An boat ride the main event of your first day. Floating through caves and between those huge karst mountains was my favorite experience in Ninh Binh, and I was happy to give it most of the afternoon.

My room was ready early when I arrived at Trang An Ecolodge, so I checked in, freshened up, and took a Grab to the Trang An Landscape Complex. First order of business: lunch.

Have Lunch Along the River at Trang An

There are restaurants and shops along the river near the Trang An ticket center, including a restaurant serving Ninh Binh’s famous goat dishes.

I ate at Coffee Phố Xưa, a much more casual spot beside the water.

The food was good, but that view was what got me. Sitting beside the river with those huge mountains surrounding me was a pretty fantastic introduction to Ninh Binh.

After lunch, walk over to the ticket center for the boat ride.

Photo courtesy of Coffee Phố Xưa

Buying Your Trang An Boat Ticket

I bought my ticket when I arrived, without booking through a tour company. I paid 300,000 VND in cash when I visited.

The ticket center is right by the restaurants and shops along the river. After buying your ticket, follow the signs through the underground passage under the road to reach the boat dock. The passage was surprising, with art and historical displays along the way.

Once you reach the dock, show your ticket and head down to the boats. It was all much easier than I expected.

If you’re staying in Ninh Binh and are comfortable using Grab (like Uber), this is an outing you can do independently. An organized tour is another option if you’d rather have the transportation and itinerary handled for you.

Choose Your Trang An Boat Route Before You Arrive

There were three boat routes to choose from when I visited, and I wish I’d looked at the options before reaching the dock.

They had an information sheet there, but I’d take a few minutes before you go to decide which route sounds best to you.

I chose Route 3, which included Dot Cave and other cave and temple stops. I loved it and would choose that route again.

What to Expect on the Trang An Boat Ride

As a solo traveler, you’ll be placed in an available seat with other passengers taking the same route. You don’t need to find your own group. The small rowboats hold four passengers plus the rower, and any seats that haven’t been paid for are filled with other ticket holders before the boat leaves.

Three younger travelers were waiting for a fourth person who wanted Route 3.

That was me.

They were traveling together, one young man and two women. They didn’t speak English, and I didn’t speak their language, but it didn’t matter. There was laughter, selfies, and conversation I couldn’t understand, but young-people language somehow feels the same everywhere.

Being added to their small group felt strangely natural.

The mountains rising straight out of the water were incredible, but the caves were what I loved most.

As the boat enters them, it gets quieter, darker, and damp. The ceilings drop low enough in places that you need to duck. Stalactites hang above you, sometimes close enough to touch as you float underneath them, and water drips from the rock.

I thought the whole thing was so cool.

I’d wondered whether I’d feel claustrophobic inside the caves. I didn’t. I found them peaceful and exciting.

The ride also includes stops where you can get out and explore temples, so you’re not sitting in the same position the entire time.

Trang An Boat Ride: Time, Comfort and What to Bring

I got on the water around 1:30 p.m. and finished around 4:15 p.m., so my outing lasted about two hours and 45 minutes.

The boat seats don’t have back support. The temple stops gave us chances to walk around and stretch, and there were bathrooms at the stops I visited. A couple also had vending machines.

There were extra oars, and passengers could help paddle if they wanted. I didn’t, but the young man next to me helped our rower several times. Our rower didn’t speak English, and that wasn’t a problem.

Here’s what I’d bring:
– Water.
– Sunscreen, sunglasses, and a hat.
– A small bag, since there isn’t much extra room in the boat.
– Cash for your ticket and any purchases along the way.

Life jackets were provided and required when I went. Our boat also had umbrellas. The young man next to me kindly held one over us for practically the entire ride while his friends shared another.

I visited in September, and it was hot, but the umbrellas, caves, and stops made the afternoon manageable. There was no wait when I arrived.

I gave our rower a 20,000 VND tip afterward. It wasn’t requested. I’d taken pictures and video of her rowing us around for hours, and I wanted to give her something extra.

Then I called a Grab and went back to Trang An Ecolodge. That was plenty for my first day.

Day 2: Mua Cave, Bich Dong Pagoda and Hoa Lu Ancient Town

Start early at Mua Cave, continue to Bich Dong Pagoda, and take a break during the hottest part of the afternoon. Head back out toward dusk for Hoa Lu Ancient Town.

This is your busier day, but the afternoon break keeps it from feeling like one long sightseeing marathon.

Climb to the Mua Cave Viewpoints

Do the climb first, before exploring the rest of the Mua Cave complex. The uneven stairs and limited shade make this the part of the day you’ll want to tackle before it gets hotter.

I arrived around 8:30 a.m. and paid 150,000 VND for admission when I visited. The complex includes shops, restaurants, landscaped areas, and lotus ponds.
But I could see the stairs. Oh Lord, here we go.

You’ll see the climb described as 500 steps. It’s tiring, but the number alone doesn’t tell the whole story. The stairs are rough, uneven, and different heights, and there’s very little shade.

There are places to stop, including a few benches, and you can move aside and sit on a step. Plenty of other people were taking breaks too.

I overheard a guide telling his group to go slowly even if they felt they could go faster, because otherwise they’d burn themselves out. He was right.

It took me about 20 minutes to reach my viewpoint, including stops. I saw people of different ages making their way up at their own pace.

Wear supportive shoes, bring water, and stop when you need to. I wore my Brooks sneakers with rubber soles, the same shoes I take everywhere.

Which Way Should You Go at the Mua Cave Fork?

Partway up, the trail splits. The right side heads toward the pagoda. The left gives you the view looking across toward it, and you can continue farther toward the dragon statue along the ridge.

I went left but didn’t continue all the way to the dragon. By the time I reached my viewpoint, I’d done enough stairs for the morning, and I was completely satisfied with the view I had.

You can look across toward the pagoda and out over the rice fields, karst mountains, and river bend through the Tam Coc area, with tiny boats moving along the water below.

Don’t wait until you reach your final viewpoint to look around. The views are beautiful during the climb up and back down.

I’d do it again.

Explore the Cave and Lotus Ponds After Your Climb

Once you’re back down, explore the actual cave that gives the complex its name. It’s farther back in the complex and isn’t as dramatic as the staircase and viewpoints.

But there was hardly anyone there, and I enjoyed the quiet after the climb. There are also smaller caves with shrines around the mountain that are easy to pass when you’re focused on getting to the viewpoint.

Then walk through the lotus ponds. You’ve probably seen pictures of the wooden boardwalks winding through the plants.

They’re the same fields you can see from above.

When I visited in September, the lotus wasn’t in peak bloom, so the fields were mostly green. They were still worth walking through, and I saw workers tending the ponds. There was no additional admission fee for the boardwalks when I went.

I spent about two hours at Mua Cave, which gave me time for the climb, cave, and lotus ponds without rushing.

After leaving, I was ready for shade and something cold. I walked down the road and found a little bistro at Scenic Homestay.

They gave me a shaded table, turned on a fan, and brought me an iced coconut coffee. So good.
Once I was ready to move again, I called a Grab to Bich Dong Pagoda.

Explore Bich Dong Pagoda and the Dark Cave

Go beyond Bich Dong’s entrance bridge. The mountainside pagodas are worth exploring, and the Dark Cave ended up being my favorite part.

Bich Dong was free to visit when I went. I arrived around 11:30 a.m. and spent about 45 minutes here. It wasn’t crowded, although a large tour bus pulled in as I was leaving.

There are small places nearby where you can get something to eat. I picked up a banh mi before exploring.

The complex has three pagodas at different levels of the mountain: Ha Pagoda, Trung Pagoda, and Thuong Pagoda.

As you explore, and climb even more steps, look for the small sign saying Động Tối, or Dark Cave. The entrance is tucked off to the side and is easy to miss.

There are actual live bats inside. You can hear and see them, and they may fly right over your head. Way cool.

The cave is dimly lit, so watch your footing. I wandered where I was comfortable rather than worrying about reaching every level of the complex.

Bich Dong is an active religious site. Cover your shoulders and knees, and remove your shoes wherever signs ask you to. There were robes available near the entrance when I visited.

Afterward, I called a Grab and went back to the ecolodge.

Take an Afternoon Break

By this point, you’ve climbed Mua Cave, walked through the lotus ponds, and explored Bich Dong in the Vietnamese heat. Go back to your hotel for a few hours.

I rested at Trang An Ecolodge before heading out again. That break made the evening much more enjoyable than trying to push straight through.

Spend the Evening at Hoa Lu Ancient Town

Visit Hoa Lu Ancient Town around dusk so you can see it in daylight and watch the lanterns come on.

First, a clarification: Hoa Lu Ancient Town and Hoa Lu Ancient Capital are different places.

Despite its name, Hoa Lu Ancient Town is a modern cultural and entertainment area with traditional-style architecture, lanterns, restaurants, street food, shops, boats, and two pagodas on the water.

The historic Hoa Lu Ancient Capital is a separate attraction. I didn’t visit it on this trip.

I arrived around 4:30 p.m., which was a little early for the nighttime atmosphere. Many shops and restaurants didn’t get going until later.

But I liked having time to wander while it was quiet, take pictures, and eat an early dinner before the lanterns and twin pagodas lit up.

By this point in my Vietnam trip, I was craving something a little more Western. Gasp.

I found Pizza Sen right on the water and ordered lotus seed pizza with honey. The lotus seeds reminded me of chickpeas, and combined with the honey and pizza, it just worked.

I ate the whole darn thing!

Later, I still managed to eat some street food on a stick while walking around.

Behind Starbucks, I found a quiet path along the water with lanterns hanging from the trees. Yes, there’s a Starbucks.

There are also stairs toward a viewpoint overlooking Hoa Lu Ancient Town. I made it about halfway up before deciding Mua Cave had given my legs enough stairs for one day.

I stayed until about 7:15 p.m., long enough to see the area lit up and the evening crowds arrive. You can also go inside the pagodas. Remember to remove your shoes when required.

Have a Third Day in Ninh Binh?

An extra day gives you room for a different outing or a little breathing space. I’d already traveled through Hoi An and Hue, and I still had Hanoi ahead of me. I was ready for a slower day.

You don’t have to fill every hour just because you’re somewhere new.

See How Vietnamese Silk Is Made

The Silk & Embroidery Training Center was my main outing. I’d book the full experience rather than simply showing up at the workshop, which is what I did.

I arrived around 1:45 p.m. thinking I could wander around and watch the artisans work. A small tour was already underway, and they invited me to join.

That’s when I discovered I’d missed the first part.

The full tour starts at the silk farm, where you can see the mulberry plants and silkworms, before continuing to the workshop. I would have loved to see that part too.

Check availability for the Silk & Embroidery tour

The part I did see was fascinating. We watched the cocoons being boiled and the silk being pulled and spun into thread, and then we got to try it ourselves.

Much harder than it looks. It was one of those pat-your-head-and-rub-your-tummy situations. My hands did not want to cooperate.

The full experience was around $25 but because I’d only joined in for a short time, the woman didn’t charge me.

It’s a good addition if you have a third day and want something different from the caves, pagodas, and mountain scenery.

Consider Bai Dinh Pagoda

Bai Dinh Pagoda is another option if you have more time. I considered the night tour, then decided I needed the rest more.

Sometimes that’s reason enough.

Instead, I ordered lunch through Grab, took a quick swim, and relaxed for the rest of the day.

Several travelers I met said they enjoyed the Bai Dinh night tour. I didn’t experience it myself, but it’s something I’d consider on a return trip.

This is the Bai Dinh/night tour everyone was talking about.

You could also use extra time to visit Hoa Lu Ancient Capital, which I didn’t see on this trip.

Where to Stay in Ninh Binh: Trang An or Tam Coc?

I’d stay at Trang An Ecolodge again and keep all my nights there. I split my stay between Trang An and Tam Coc to try both areas, but I regretted leaving those mountain views.

I spent two nights at Trang An Ecolodge and my last night at its sister property, Rustic Hideaway in Tam Coc.

At Trang An Ecolodge, I woke up surrounded by karst mountains. Add the pool, peaceful setting, and wonderful hospitality, and it was exactly the break I wanted during this trip. I paid around $65 a night.

Check availability at Trang An Ecolodge

Rustic Hideaway was a lovely property, but my room’s view included power lines and the backs of nearby homes. After two mornings looking out at those mountains, it couldn’t compete.

For the setting I wanted, Trang An Ecolodge won easily. With Grab usually arriving within a few minutes when I needed one, the location worked well for exploring too.

Looking for a place to stay in Ninh Binh? I preferred staying near Trang An, but you can use the map below to compare hotels and prices throughout the area.

Getting Around Ninh Binh Without a Scooter

You don’t need to rent a scooter to follow this itinerary. I used Grab for almost everything, and most of the time I waited less than five minutes for a car.

I could start when I wanted, stop for coconut coffee when I was hot, or head back to the hotel when I’d had enough.

And the cars had air conditioning. I’ll take AC every chance I can get in Vietnam.

This was different from my two days in Hue, where I booked a full-day tour to cover several historical sites and understand what I was seeing. In Ninh Binh, I was happy exploring independently.

If you’d rather have transportation arranged and a set itinerary, an organized day tour is another way to see the main attractions.

Getting to Ninh Binh and Continuing to Hanoi

Arriving by Overnight Train From Hue

I arrived around 8 a.m. on the Lotus Express overnight train from Hue. The station was the one place where finding my Grab driver was confusing.

A lot of passengers got off at once, and there were people and vehicles everywhere outside. I’d already used Grab dozens of times in Indonesia, Thailand, and Vietnam, but finding the right car in that crowd took some work.

Next time, I’d ask my hotel to arrange a station pickup, or wait for the crowd to clear before ordering a Grab.

Once I was away from the station, getting around was easy.

Getting From Ninh Binh to Hanoi

My hotel arranged a limo van for my final morning. After breakfast, it picked me up at the property and took me to a meeting point, where passengers were sorted into vans depending on their destination.

My van continued to Hanoi and dropped me directly at my hotel. The trip took about two and a half hours.

After arranging my own rides through Vietnam, being picked up and delivered to my next hotel was pretty darn nice.

Heading there next? Here’s how I spent three days in Hanoi.

Ninh Binh FAQs

Is Two Days Enough in Ninh Binh?
Two full days are enough for the attractions I’d prioritize: Trang An, Mua Cave, Bich Dong Pagoda, and an evening at Hoa Lu Ancient Town. If you want to add the silk experience, more sightseeing, or some downtime, give yourself a third day.

Is Ninh Binh Good for Solo Travel?
I found Ninh Binh easy to explore alone. I used Grab between attractions, bought tickets when I arrived, and joined other passengers for the Trang An boat ride. If you’re planning your first independent trip, my Planning Your First Solo Trip guide can help you get started.

Do You Need to Book the Trang An Boat Ride Ahead?
I didn’t book ahead. I bought my ticket at the ticket center and joined a boat with other passengers. I’d look at the route options before arriving so you know which one you want.

Can You Visit Ninh Binh on a Day Trip From Hanoi?
A Ninh Binh day trip from Hanoi is an option if you’re short on time and want transportation arranged. I’d stay at least two nights if your schedule allows it, so you can spread out the sightseeing and enjoy the evenings.

Is Ninh Binh Worth Visiting?

Absolutely. Floating underneath stalactites at Trang An, looking over the river from Mua Cave, and having bats fly overhead at Bich Dong made this one of my favorite stops in Vietnam.

Give yourself two full days, stay somewhere you’re excited to come back to, and leave room for an afternoon by the pool. I’d happily return.

You can find my other guides on my Vietnam destination page.

If you’re excited about traveling alone but still wondering whether you can really do it, read my First-Time Solo Travel Tips next.